Your hot water system isn’t something most homeowners think about until it stops working. That’s usually when the bill hits—often between $2,500 and $4,000 for a replacement.
A basic maintenance routine changes that equation entirely. At SA Hot Water, we’ve spent over 40 years watching which systems last and which ones fail prematurely. The difference consistently comes down to one thing: maintenance.
Why Maintenance Matters Before It’s Too Late
Adelaide’s water is harder than most Australian cities realize. This matters because minerals—calcium and magnesium mostly—settle at the bottom of your tank year after year.
After about five years without flushing, that sediment becomes a serious problem. It insulates the heating element from the water, forcing your system to work 20% harder just to reach the same temperature. Your energy bills climb. Your system ages faster.
We’ve also seen what happens when the metal inside corrodes. A sacrificial anode rod—a metal rod specifically designed to corrode instead of your tank—protects the steel walls. Once that rod is gone, the tank itself starts deteriorating. Most people don’t notice until water starts pooling underneath.
The good news: these problems are completely preventable with simple, regular checks.
Daily Checks (Takes 2-3 Minutes)
You won’t need tools for these. They’re observations, nothing more.
Look for water underneath:
Check the base of your unit and around pipe connections once daily. Water pooling means a leak developing. Some seeping suggests connections are loosening. If you see water, place a towel under the drip and note whether it’s growing. This tells you whether it’s an immediate emergency or something to schedule this week.
Feel the supply pipes:
Before you shower, touch the cold water inlet pipe and the hot water outlet pipe. Cold should feel cool. Hot should feel warm but not scalding. If both feel cold, your system isn’t heating. If both feel equally hot all the time, the thermostat might be stuck on high—a safety issue with children or elderly people in your home.
Listen during heating cycles:
Normal operation is quiet. You might hear a gentle whooshing sound when the burner ignites (gas systems) or a soft hum (electric systems). Popping sounds mean sediment is under the heating element—nothing dangerous yet, but a sign flushing is coming soon. Banging or rumbling suggests heavier buildup. Hissing can indicate moisture getting into the gas valve or heating element.
These three habits take less time than brushing your teeth but catch 80% of problems before they become expensive.
Monthly Tasks (10 Minutes)
Set a calendar reminder for the same day each month. This prevents the “I’ll do it next month” cycle that leads to neglect.
Test the pressure relief valve:
This small lever on the side of your tank prevents explosions. Seriously. When pressure builds too high, this valve opens and releases hot water. If it fails, the tank can rupture. Once monthly, place a bucket underneath the discharge pipe and lift the lever for 5 seconds. Water should flow freely. Release the lever—water should stop. If water keeps flowing or the lever won’t budge, call immediately. This valve costs $150 to $250 to replace. A failed tank costs $2,500 to $4,000.
Inspect for corrosion spots:
Look at the outside of your tank. You’re looking for orange-brown discoloration or white crusty deposits. Orange means the metal is corroding. White means mineral deposits are collecting. Neither is immediate danger, but both mean your system is aging. Take a photo with your phone and date it. Over time, you’ll see if corrosion is spreading or staying stable.
Check all connections:
Where pipes connect to your tank, look for water stains or dampness. Tighten any connections that feel loose using a wrench. Leaks at connections are usually fixable with a new washer or tightening. Leaks from the tank itself mean the tank is failing.
Verify the temperature setting:
Look at your thermostat dial or digital display. The recommended setting in Australia is 50°C (120°F). This is hot enough to kill bacteria that causes Legionella but cool enough to prevent scalding. If your setting is higher, lower it. If you can’t find your thermostat or adjust it safely, call us. Don’t guess with temperature settings.
Quarterly Check (Around 15 Minutes)
Do this every three months—pick months like March, June, September, and December to keep it simple.
Inspect the anode rod:
This is the single most important maintenance task. Your anode rod sits inside the tank, usually accessed from the top under a large hex bolt. You don’t need to remove it. Look through the access opening or ask your plumber to check it during their visit. A healthy anode rod looks silver-gray with some white or light corrosion. A failing rod looks mostly black, heavily pitted, or nearly gone. If it’s failed, schedule replacement immediately. This is your tank’s last line of defense. Replacement costs $150 to $250. A new tank costs $2,500 to $4,000. Do the math.
Test the drain valve:
Place a bucket underneath your drain valve (usually at the base of the tank). Open it slowly for 10 seconds. Water should flow freely—not forcefully, but steady. If nothing comes out or it trickles, the valve is clogged with sediment. A professional will need to flush the system or replace the valve before next year’s annual service.
Listen for heating sounds:
When your system cycles on, listen carefully. You should hear steady operation without odd noises. If you hear sudden banging or if the heating cycle takes noticeably longer than before, sediment is building up. This is your three-month warning sign to schedule flushing.
Check hot water pressure:
hot taps at different parts of your home. Pressure should be consistent. If hot water comes out much weaker than cold water, sediment is probably blocking the outlet. This also means your tank isn’t storing as much usable hot water as it should.
Annual Service (Professional, 1-2 Hours)
This is where prevention becomes reality. Most system failures happen because annual service is skipped. We’ve seen systems fail at 8 years that should have lasted 15 years. The difference was always the same: no professional service.
Tank flushing
This removes accumulated sediment from the bottom. Adelaide’s water—especially in suburbs like Northgate, Craigmore, and Modbury—requires yearly flushing. Hard water areas should flush twice yearly. The process involves draining the tank completely, then flushing cold water through while it drains. A professional has the right equipment and knows when the water runs clear. This takes 1-2 hours and costs $150 to $250. Skipping this costs you $200 to $300 yearly in wasted energy and shortens your system’s life by 3-5 years.
Anode rod replacement
If your quarterly checks show deterioration, this is done during annual service. A new rod costs $150 to $250 installed. You’ll get 3 to 5 more years of protection from a fresh rod. Many customers ask why we push this—it’s because we’ve watched tanks fail at year 10 that would have lasted to year 15 with an anode rod replacement at year 7.
Safety inspection
Your plumber tests the pressure relief valve properly (not just that lever check). They verify water temperature is accurate. For gas systems, they check burner function and venting. For electric systems, they test electrical connections. They look for signs of internal failure that you can’t see—small leaks, weakening tank walls, corrosion spreading. This inspection catches problems when they’re small and fixable, not when they’re catastrophic.
Efficiency assessment
A proper service includes checking that your system heats water at the right speed, maintains temperature properly, and isn’t working harder than it should. Rising energy bills often signal a problem your thermostat alone won’t show.
Adelaide Hard Water Considerations
This isn’t generic advice. Northern Adelaide suburbs have genuinely hard water. If you live in Northgate, Craigmore, Modbury, or Tea Tree Gully, plan on flushing every six months instead of yearly. If you live south of the city, once yearly is usually sufficient. Unsure? Call us and we can test your water hardness.
Hard water doesn’t just affect your water heater. It builds up on shower heads, inside kettles, and in dishwashers. But in your water heater, it’s the biggest maintenance driver. That white crusty buildup inside your tank isn’t just mineral—it’s your system telling you it’s working harder than it should.
When to Call a Professional Right Away
Don’t wait on these. They need attention the same day:
- Active leaking from the tank
- Gas smell (safety hazard)
- No hot water for more than a few hours despite power being on
- Sudden increase in water temperature (thermostat malfunction)
- Visible corrosion spreading across the tank
- Relief valve continuously dripping
- Rotten egg smell from hot water
The Real Cost of Skipping Maintenance
Most people don’t realize that maintenance isn’t just about longevity. A well-maintained system runs 10% to 20% more efficiently. Over a year, that’s a real difference on your energy bill. A neglected system works harder, uses more energy, and ages years faster.
We’ve worked on over 10,000 systems in Adelaide. The pattern is clear: systems that get annual service last 12 to 15 years. Systems that don’t last 8 to 10 years. One annual service at $200 to $300 extends your system’s life by 4-5 years and saves you hundreds in energy costs. The math is straightforward.
Conclusion:
Schedule Your First Service
If your system hasn’t had professional maintenance in over a year, that’s your starting point. Call 08 8444 7320 and book an annual inspection and flush. We’ll walk you through what we find and recommend what your specific system needs. We’re Bosch, Rheem, Rinnai, and Dux authorized service agents, so we know these systems inside out.
Your water heater doesn’t need to be complicated. It needs consistency. Daily glances. Monthly checks. Quarterly observations. Annual professional service. That routine prevents 95% of problems before they happen.
That’s how we’ve kept Adelaide homes in hot water for over 40 years.